Looking for free knitting patterns for shrugs? These five are selected for their simple design and use of different textured stitches.
According to Wikipedia, a shrug is a cropped, cardigan-like garment with short or long sleeves cut in with the body. It is typically knitted for women. It is worn as the outermost layer of an outfit, with a full shirt, tank top, or dress beneath.
I have noticed that they are usually made up of simple rectangles or squares with part of the edges seamed up to make up the opening for the arms.
Since they are rectangles or squares, creativity is focused on the textured stitches chosen and the way they are made up.
Rolled Collar Shrug
Designed by Marcia Cleary and appears in Vogue Knitting Spring/Summer 2008.
The Rolled Collar shrug is a fitted shrug that is great for pairing with a smart sleeveless dress.
It is knitted as one rectangular piece from sleeve edge to sleeve edge. Marcia uses alternate bands of stockinette and reverse to stockinette to achieve a horizontal ribbed look.
Another shrug knitted from cuff to cuff. The texture stitch for the cuff is called Rich man’s garter stitch. I have never heard of this type of garter stitch before and I am quite excited to have found it.
This shrug is knitted from cuff to cuff. Skills needed including increases and decreases into each stitch, picking up stitches, and knitting in the round using circular needles.
Take the opportunity to learn the elongated garter stitch with this shrug. I think it is pretty straightforward. Knit for 4 rows. For row 5, wrap yarn twice for each stitch knitted. For row 6, knit each stitch and drop the extra wrap. Repeat these 6 rows.
It is definitely more complicated than the Rolled Collar Shrug and Tanja Steinbach cosy shrug.
Looking for free knitting patterns for slippers? The first five slipper patterns use garter stitch because it produces a thick squishy texture.
Three of the patterns are Youtube tutorials without any written instructions. I think they are quite easy to follow so I decided to include them. I may transcribe them later when I have time. 🙂
Simple garter stitch slippers
Designed by Hanna Levaniemi.
I tried this pattern and really enjoyed it. The slipper starts out like a garter stitch square with a little shaping for the toe. The heel is formed by seaming up the cast-on edge. I think I can substitute this with a Turkish cast on and continue with knitting back and forth.
The instructions could include a few more pictures on how the slippers are seamed together.
Seam up the toe and crochet the 2 sides of the squares together to form the instep. Quick and fun.
How to knit a bunny you ask? Learn with these 10 free knitting patterns for rabbits.
Start with a pattern which is basically a knitted square with carefully placed stitches. Next, 2 or 3 patterns cleverly shaped using increases, decreases and short rows. Then we have the classic ones with all parts individually knitted up and put together.
There are patterns with accessories like caps, dress, poncho, jumpers, carrots and balloons. All opportunities to make something quick and cute.
One Square Stuffed Bunny
Designed by Gina Michele, this bunny is a knitted square. A cleverly stitched triangle using durable yarn pulled up to create the head and ears. Gina provided pictures of how the triangle is stitched.
Sew up the seams for the body and bottom. Attach a pom pom as a tail. Totally doable.
Designed by Sara Elizabeth Kellner. The body is knitted up using short rows and increases.
The pattern calls short rows and increases for the body. To knit the head, stitches are picked up from the neckline cast-on edge. I think a provisional cast-on might be easier than picking up stitches from a small neckline.
The ears are tricky which is why designer took pictures and with step-by-step instructions. The model bunny is not very big: the size of my palm. It could be made larger if bulky yarn and bigger needles are used.
Designed by knitterbees, this bunny knitting pattern features bunny ears that are perky and straight rather than big and floppy.
There is a gap in the pattern. It didn’t say how you should attach the head to the body. The usual method is probably to sew the head and the body together.
A knitter mentioned that she picked up stitches from the head to knit the body. Not a bad idea. Or we can use a provisional cast-on for the head so you get live stitches later to continue with the body.
Designed by Val Pierce and collected in a book called Knitted Rabbits. The book has 20 cuddly bunny knitting patterns. This one with the bunny is my favourite. I like that it is more realistic yet toy enough for a kid.
The recommended yarn is a luxury baby alpaca. This gives it a furry coat as soft as silk. It uses a yarn colour change to mark out the nose and belly of the bunny.
Unlike the patterns before this, the parts for this bunny are knitted separately and sewn together later. There is quite a fair bit of sewing as the parts are knitted flat initially.
Val gave sufficient information for the making up. The position of the seams, the placement of the parts for attaching. This definitely helps with making the finishing of the bunny more polished.
Designed by Sarah Youde, Sunny bunny is a kid-friendly cuddly bunny.
This pattern, like Bunny with Carrot, has different parts. I personally prefer knitting a larger single piece with shaping. However, sometimes, you just cannot avoid knitting many parts in order to make a nice toy.
Sarah included instructions for a dress and a jumper. Obviously for a girl bunny and a boy bunny. Sarah left it to the knitter to decide a colour combination for Sunny.
Looking for knitted owls? These 7 owl knitting patterns are arranged from easy to advanced.
Owls are wise animals and are favourite knitted toys for children. Knowing how to knit a few could prove useful for knitters who have children to knit for. What am I saying? Even adults love owls. 🙂
The first two patterns are knitted flat in one piece and sewn up. The rest are knitted in the round in a variety of ways.
I like knitted owls because there are fewer parts to work with. Some of the patterns like Amanda’s stuffy owl only 1 piece.
The patterns are arranged according to the level of difficulty. If you start from the first pattern and work your way down (yes, I believe you can try out all 7 patterns as they are all quick knits), you shall become an expert owl knitter.
1. Amanda’s Stuffy Owl
Designed by Amanda Berry, Stuffy owl is knitted in one piece, folded in half and sewn up.
The eyes and beak are added after the knitting is done using the duplicate stitch, also known as Swiss darning. This technique gives the features a pop-up effect. I like. The colourwork chart is included.
Other knitting skills you need to know include: stockinette stitch, increase 2 by knitting into front and back (KBF) and decrease by knitting 2 together, and mattress stitch.
The pattern is well written with helpful instructions for making up. For example, Amanda tells you to sew up using mattress stitch and that the cast-off and cast-on edges is the bottom of the owl. She presented pictures of the bottom and side seams of the finished project so that you know what to expect.
You need to sign up for an account with lovecrafts in order to download the free PDF pattern.
Designed by Gina Michele, Easy Plush Owl is knitted using Lionbrand Wool-Ease Thick and 8mm needle. The main body is knitted flat in one piece, folded in half and sewn up. It seems Gina “borrowed” from Amanda’s Stuffy Owl to create the body for Easy Plush Owl. I say this because the instructions are exactly the same.
However, that’s where the similarity ends. Easy Plush Owl’s eyes, beak and wings are knitted separately. Eyes are crocheted circles, although they can be knitted (if you know how) or cut out felt.
The cast on row is missing from the pattern but it should be obvious since the first row says to purl 15 stitches. 🙂
Gina did not say how to sew up the seams which I think could affect the shaping and finishing of the owl.
When Purl Soho called Snowy Owl big, they meant it. This is a humongous project, as big as an adult cat. It requires Super Bulky yarn and US size 15 needles. I tried knitting this with a worsted weight yarn. It still works.
It is knitted in the round. The beginning increases is similar to the owl puffs but Snowy has a longer body and clever shaping for the ears. It is knitted in a single colour and used a simple textured stitch to give the owl’s body more interest.
The eyes are knitted circles and attached to the body afterwards. I find it a tad challenging placing them in the right place so that they would not look funny. The beak is knitted by picking up stitches directly between the eyes.
It was a little awkward in the beginning but I got the hang of it soon.
The pattern is well-written. There are even questions and answers at the comment section which are helpful.
Designed by Katknits, Little Black Owl is basically a knitted ball with felt circles and black buttons as eyes using chunky weight yarn and 5mm needles.
The body is really quite straightforward especially if you already know how to knit in the round and do increases and decreases. The wings are knitted separately and attached. The ears are stitches picked up from the head and knitted in shape.
The eyes are cut out felt and black buttons. The beak is yellow felt. These are glued on to the body. This is also the only finishing I do not like. I think they will fall off if children play with it.
The remedy is simple though. Just stitched the felt pieces in place instead of glue and use child-safety eyes.
Cordell is knitted in the round from bottom to head. The recommended yarn is Ondina from Mafil, a type of boucle yarn. Cordell has a ruffled look because of it. The needle sizes are 3.5mm and 4.5mm.
The cast-on and shaping of the body are similar to the other knit-in-the-round patterns here. The difference is the way the eyes, beak and wings are made up. Last but not least Cordell has feet and spectacles.
Designed by Corinne Fourcade, Bubo looks more like an owl-inspired cushion rather than a knitted toy owl.
The pattern contains instructions for 2 sizes and Corinne interspersed the instructions for both throughout the pattern. I am not sure that is a good idea because knitters might not realize they have just followed instructions for the wrong size.
Bubo looks simple but the gauge is given and, I suspect, needs to be followed. It also called for the Turkish cast-on which is a way to create a seamless cast-on. It is commonly used for toe-up socks where the cast-on stitches are fewer.
This pattern calls for a Turkish cast-on of 76 or 150 stitches (small and large Bubo). That’s a lot of stitches to manage. Challenging then.
The patterns I selected here offers both methods. Try both and see which one you like. Knitters who hate sewing up will most likely prefer the one-piece patterns, but they need to like knitting in the round.
The pattern is knitted in the round. Begin at the neck with a K1 P1 ribbing and stockinette stitch for the body. The body shaping is created using increases and increases at the belly portion followed by another K1 P1 ribbing for the hem. The openings for the front legs are made by casting off and casting on prescribed stitches.
I think the design is quite straightforward and simple.
Recommended yarn is Knit Picks City Tweed Aran/Heavy Worsted Yarn
Recommended gauge is 20 Stitches = 10 cm on size 8 needles
The dog sweater is knitted flat and then seamed together. The leg openings are created by splitting the piece into 3 parts where they are worked on separately and then rejoined. It features a mock cable running down the back of the sweater.
Learn how to knit socks first before attempting your first sock knitting pattern. Avoid making the mistakes I did.
My first knitted sock is so big it can fit Big Foot. Sock knitting fail! I am the sort of person that will dive into a knitting pattern straight away instead of learning the basics first from books or tutorials.
I made a few fundamental mistakes. Learn how to knit socks successfully by avoiding the mistakes I made.
Mistake 1: Not knowing the anatomy of a sock
I do not know the names of the different parts of a sock. Many sock knitting patterns do not explain what the parts are. The designer assumes you know.
Heel flap may be easy to figure out, but gusset and instep are not. It used to annoy me quite a bit until I came across a diagram for the anatomy of a sock.
Now I know that a sock has a cuff, leg, heel flap, instep, gusset, sole and toe.
Mistake 2: Not measuring my feet
I did not know that I need to measure my feet. I just went with the standard size.
Now I know that by measuring my feet, I can then match it to the most appropriate size.
Here is how to measure the foot.
Wrap the measuring tape around the widest part of the foot snuggly but not tightly for the width of the foot
Place the ruler on the floor, line the back of the heel with the 0 and note the length of the longest toe. This gives you the length of your foot
Place the ruler along the wall with the 0 on the floor. Position the leg against the ruler and measure the height up to the ankle or the calf. You may need to measure the circumference of the calf
Or watch this video.
Mistake 3: Not checking my tension or gauge
The legs of my handknitted socks do not stay up. Some knitters I know said that this is quite common. It happened to them too.
When I read the book Custom Socks, author Kate mentioned the way to resolve loose cuffs is to knit with negative ease. This is approximately 10% of the actual foot size. It means that the knitted sock should be about 1 inch or 2.5cm smaller than leg or foot circumference. And 0.5 inch or 1.3cm shorter than the foot length.
This can only be calculated if I know my knitting tension. After measuring my feet and working out the sock circumference and length, I must check gauge. By checking gauge, I can calculate the number of stitches to cast on.
This video is a bit long but is very comprehensive about how to check gauge. I totally recommend it if you are not familiar with knitting gauge.
Top-down or Toe-up Socks?
There are basically 2 ways to knit socks.
Top-down which is to knit from the cuff down to the toe. Toe-up is to knit from the toe up to the cuff.
I believe the top-down method is more common and more popular. But it is good to know how to do both.
Join in the round to start knitting the cuff using 2-knit, 2-purl ribbing. The cuff is usually around 2 inches long.
The leg comes next. Knit to the desired length. Then split the stitches in half for the heel and instep. The heel is the bottom and the instep is the top of the sock.
Work the heel stitches first by knitting back and forth in rows to shape the heel flap.
Pick up stitches for the gussets along the heel flap. Rejoin with the other half of the stitches for the instep.
Knit the foot in the round.
I find picking stitches for the gussets challenging. Holes always form. Eventually, I learned how to avoid it. I wished I had read Kate Atherly’s Custom Socks. It has a very detailed section on how to pick up the gusset stitches and not create holes. I would have saved a lot of time and frustrations if I have learnt this first.
Finally, shape the toe by decreasing at each side of the foot. Decrease every other round until half of the original stitches. Then, decrease every round until 8 or 10 stitches remain. Close the toe by gathering the stitches up or using Kitchener graft. I prefer the graft.
The division of the stitches on the needles differ between circular needles and double-pointed needles. For circular needles, divide the stitches equally. For double-pointed needles, divide equally amongst the number of needles.
Double pointed needles can be fiddly and ladders may form in the knitting because of the transition from needle to needle. Two long circular needles can be floppy. Short circular needles need getting used to because the length of the needles is quite short.
My personal favourite is using long circular needles and the magic loop technique for knitting in-the-round projects.
Stitches are divided in half on the circular needles. The front of the sock on one needle and the back of the sock on the other needle. I find this easier to manage than 4 or 5 double-pointed needles.
Using long circular needles also allow both socks to be knitted at the same time. No worries about the second sock syndrome.
What Types of Yarns Are Good for Socks?
As I live in the tropics, I have always avoided wool. I find them itchy.
But according to Kate of Custom Socks, superwash wool is the best yarn material for socks. They are elastic, durable and licks up moisture beautifully.
What about the itchiness?
Her theory is that the skin of the foot is the least sensitive and should take to wool well even if the rest of my body does not. It seems to make sense. I am going to try her suggestion because I do have a few skeins of wool sock yarns that I do not know what to do with.
I hope you have found these tips useful. Let me know if you have tried them out.
Books for Sock Knitting
Custom Socks: knit to fit your feet by Kate Atherley ISBN: 9781620337776
I have mentioned this book a couple of times in the post. It is really useful. I got it from my public library. It has an electronic version too.
Not only does it cover tips on how to knit socks successfully, but it also has about 15+ patterns.
Packed full of information on how to design and custom hand-knitted socks. I highly recommend it.
Knitting a tension square is quite a hassle so I want to find out why it is a good idea and how to do it easily.
A tension square is also known as a gauge swatch. It is supposed to be a square piece of knitting that contains the gauge.
What is Gauge?
In a typical knitting pattern, you will see something like this:
Gauge: 16 stitches and 24 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm
A specific number of rows and stitches that makes up 4 inches or 10 cm.
This means that your knitting should produce 4 inches of knitted fabric consisting of 24 rows and 16 stitches using the recommended yarn and knitting needles.
Why is gauge important?
If I am knitting dishcloths, blankets, or bags, I am not going to knit tension squares to check gauge. It is not a big deal. But I will do so for socks, hats, gloves, and garments.
Why? Because I want my knitted items to fit me and the people I knit them for.
Personal experience taught me that the type of yarns I used, the type of needles I use, and the stitches or textures I am knitting affect how tight or loose my knitting is. So, if I want my finished project to have the same measurement as that of the pattern I am using, I must check my tension against the given gauge.
The recommended way of doing this is by knitting a tension square. The general instructions are to make it, wash it, and dry it before measuring.
How To Knit a Tension Square?
The simplest way is to cast on the desired number of stitches and knit the desired number of rows. The most common complaints of this method are uneven edges and curling. Another complaint is the likelihood of the swatch or square being too small.
The video tutorial below recommends adding a garter stitch border around the square and adding additional stitches and rows. I find this video quite comprehensive for a beginner knitter. At the 15 min mark, she demonstrates how to count the stitches and rows.
I find measuring and counting stitches and rows in a gauge swatch a real pain. Fortunately, there are tools to help. One of them is a tension square ruler. I like this one.
I think I can say for all knitters that when we start a tension square, we want to achieve the gauge. Because if we don’t, it means doing it all over again. Ugh!
But missing gauge happens more often than we want it to. So what do we do when we do not get gauge?
Firstly, we can ignore the gauge. A knitter wrote that just being aware is enough. This works for items that may not need the perfect fit. I would ignore gauge for mittens, scarfs, cowls, shawls especially if it is off by a little.
If we cannot ignore, then we need to interpret the gauge difference.
If you have more rows than recommended, your project will be too long. If you have fewer rows, your project will be too short.
It is unlikely that your mismatched gauge will only be in the rows. But if it is, there is no need to change anything, just knit more or fewer rows to get the measurement.
Too many stitches meant that the tension is tight. The project is going to be smaller than expected. The remedy is to use larger needles. Too few stitches meant that the tension is loose, the project is going to be larger than expected. The remedy is to use smaller needles.
Another way to get gauge is to substitute the yarns. So far, most instructions assume you are using the recommended yarns. So the suggestion is to change the needles. But changing yarns is also an option.
Changing the way you knit
I knit using the English style most of the time. But I do know how to do Continental too. I noticed my tension is looser when I knit using the Continental style. If you are a super tight knitter, you might want to consider practising loosening up a bit.
Shortcuts to Knitting the Tension Square
I still do not like knitting tension squares. I am not an A+ student in knitting. So, are there shortcuts?
Question: Why 4 inches or 10 centimetres?
I came across this gauge ruler that only has measurement for 2 inches.
The SSK knitting technique can be confusing. Find out why.
You see this knitting abbreviation frequently in knitting patterns and instructions. It is a technique to make a left-slanting decrease. It reduces two stitches to one. And it is commonly used for shaping, binding off or to create lace patterns.
Why Bother with the SSK Knitting Technique?
When I first started knitting, I did not really care which technique I use to do decreases. I learnt k2tog first and it was easy to remember, so I use K2tog for all my decreases. It was alright for a while until I started working on lace projects. The lace patterns did not turn up as nice when I replace the SKPO or SSK with K2tog.
I want my lace projects to look good so I know it is time to learn more techniques if I really want my knitting to improve.
When I was researching the SSK knitting technique on the Internet, I discovered that the description and instructions differ slightly with different knitters.
The common things that knitters say about SSK are:
It is a one-stitch decrease
It produces a left-slanting decrease
It is the mirror image of knit 2 stitches together (abbreviated as k2tog), which makes a right-slanting decrease.
From here, variations start to pop up.
I think I finally figured out why after some additional research work.
How to Slip Slip Knit (Original)
SSK knitting instruction is written as follows:
Slip the first stitch as if to knit
Slip the second stitch as if to knit
Knit these two stitches together through the back loop
Problem with the SSK Knitting Technique
Although SSK and K2tog are supposed to be mirror stitches, k2tog always seems neater and tidier than the SSK. Apparently, many knitters are unhappy with the way it looks.
Suzanne Bryan, in the video below, discussed why it is so. According to her, the yarn unravels slightly or untwist slightly when it is slipped from left to right needle knitwise. This creates an “untidy” decrease compared to the K2tog.
She then offers a few tips on how to knit tidier SSK.
One of the suggestions is to slip the second stitch purlwise rather than knitwise. So an SSK knitting technique can be written like this:
Slip the first stitch as if to knit
Slip the second stitch as if to purl
Knit these two stitches together through the back loop
Susanne said that if you are going to be slipping the second stitch purlwise, you might as well not slip it. So the instructions would be:
Slip the first stitch as if to knit
Slip the first stitch back to the left needle
Knit two stitches together through the back loop
What do you think? Confusing right?
I have a tight tension, so I think I stick with the original instruction.
Is SSK the same as SKPO?
SKPO stands for Slip Knit Pass Over. Some knitters (including Suzanne Bryan) say that SKPO is the same as SSK and that it produces a neater and slimmer left-slanting decrease.
I have always knit my left-slanting decreases using SKPO, I did not know that the SSK knitting technique is not the same as SKPO until I saw the video by Hands on Knitting Center.
She shows the difference between the two quite clearly. Fast forward to 5.05m where she starts discussing them. The first part of the video is more on demonstrating how to do K2tog and SSK using both the Continental and English styles.
Although both reduces two stitches to one, they do look different.
I am really happy with my discovery of the SSK knitting technique. I am not going to mix SSK and SKPO up anymore.
Looking for a balaclava knitting pattern? Find 10 free patterns for children and adults. From purely functional to the quirky.
A balaclava is described as a hat that exposes only part of the face. For example, only the eyes are exposed. Or both eyes and nose are exposed. Or only the eyes, nose and mouth are exposed. I think a head-covering is a more accurate name. It serves as both a hat and a scarf, providing warmth and coverage for the head, ears, and neck.
Most balaclava feature an opening in the front. Depending on the size of the opening, the bottom part can be stretched to reveal or cover different parts of the face. The top part can also be pulled behind your head revealing the head.
Why is it called Balaclava?
This head-covering is named after the town of Balaclava during the Crimean War in 1854. It was originally worn by Russian soldiers. It is now popular with skiers, climbers and bikers because it is flexible and warm. The design and colours have also developed from there.
The Balaclava lends itself well to knitting since knitting provides the stretch required.
There are 10 balaclava knitting patterns here: 5 for adults, 5 for kids.
Bulky Yarn Knit Balaclava Pattern
Designed by Louise of Handy Little Me, this is a cosy head-covering suitable for winter using super bulky yarn. The recommended yarn is Drops Eskimo Print – 27 Rust Print.
Knitting techniques that you need to know would be knit, purl, k2tog and knitting in the round.
The instructions could do with headings to signpost which part of the balaclava you are working on. But I think it is basically cast on for the neck and work all the way to the top of the head.
Made available by the Seamen’s Church Institute. According to them, seafarers who work on ship decks and gangways love this. I have no idea why they call this a helmet.
It resembles Travs Balaclava. The pattern offers two ways to knit this balaclava. One way is similar to Travs: knit in the round. The other way is knit flat. For knitters who do not like knitting in the round, this is a good pattern to try.
This pretty balaclava is knitted in the round from neck up to the crown. A branching cable travels up the balaclava from the neck up to the crown. I am always curious how decreasing work with cables. Nikol has a neat way of doing it.
Nikol provides step by step instructions together with pictures on how to knit the branching cables.
The opening is created by leaving live stitches and casting on stitches with the cable cast-on method. Again, Nikol provides detailed instructions on how to make up the opening with a neat edge.
Designed by Saskia de Feijter, this pattern is both a pretty cap and a scary Halloween head-covering inspired by Jack Skellington of The Nightmare Before Christmas.
Knitted in the round starting with 8 rows of garter stitch at the neck. This is followed by a 3-inch stockinette stitch, 4-inch 2×2 ribbing, 5-inch stockinette stitch up to eye holes, eye holes, and decreasing stitches to shape the crown.
The closure at the crown of the hat is interesting. Like a cross.
People who have experienced dressing young children for cold weather can appreciate and understand the charm of the balaclava. It acts as a hat and scarf or cowl in a single piece. Pull it over the head of the child and it stays there securely. No anxious fumbling with the scarf or picking up beanies for active fussy children who like pulling their hats off.
5 balaclava knitting patterns for kids here. All of them feature a single opening for the face.
Seamless Kitty Cat Balaclava
The seamless kitty cat balaclava is designed by Valerie Johnson of Wandering Cat Studio. The pattern has instructions for children from age 2, 4 and 6. Gauge is 5 stitches and 6.5 rows to 1 inch in stockinette stitch.
Start at the face opening with ribbing, followed by flat knitting for the head. Shaping for ears and back of the head is achieved by increasing and decreasing stitches and short rows.
Valerie included helpful notes and abbreviations in the pattern. I like how she created clear sections for each part of the balaclava: face opening, head, first ear, second ear, back of the head, and neck.
Her pattern also included pictures of the balaclava which helps knitters check whether they are on track.
We have a cat and gnome-inspired balaclavas, how can we leave the bunny out?
Designed by Wendy Poush. It is free until further notice. 🙂
Bunnyclava is worked in the round starting from the neck up to the top of the head. The opening is shaped using short rows with increases and decreases over the forehead. The opening is big enough to tuck under the chin.
The ears are not knitted separately and then sewn into the hat. It is firmly attached to the hat because it is picked up and knitted directly onto the hat.
You will need to have 5mm circular needles about 16 inch or 40cm long. Instructions are only for a single size. The finished product measures about 17.75 inch in circumference but we all know this depends on our knitting tension, and yarns used.
This three-colour balaclava has an unusual construction. Gretchen gave an overview. There is a knitted strip where stitches are picked up from both sides to create the sides of the head. After the head is knitted flat, the work is joined in the round to knit the neck. The opening for the face has a ribbed edging. It cannot be adjusted.
In my opinion, this pattern is for a seasoned knitter. You have to take care of the colourwork and the shaping work.